8" Commercial 70V In-Wall Speakers

Included

A technical line drawing depicting a pair of identical rectangular in-wall speakers positioned side-by-side: Speaker Layout: Each speaker features a 2-way driver design mounted within a outer rectangular baffle frame lined with perimeter mounting holes and corner assembly screws. Tweeter: Located in the top section within an oval recess, featuring a circular tweeter with a tri-star protective grille guard. The front speaker also features a small circular adjustment dial or switch located to the left of the tweeter housing. Woofer: A large circular woofer cone with ribbed surround detailing occupies the lower half of each speaker panel.

A technical line drawing depicting two rectangular speaker grilles side-by-side: Grille Design: Two flat, rectangular protective speaker grilles featuring a uniform, fine mesh/perforated hole pattern across their entire surfaces with rounded corners. Arrangement: The left grille is positioned slightly higher and in front, partially overlapping the second grille resting directly behind it to the right.

What is 70V?

70-volt systems are the number one choice for any application where you want to install multiple speakers. With 70-volt there are a lot of advantages over 8-ohm systems. One of the main advantages is the simplicity of the wiring as well as how easy it is to match up the speakers with an amplifier. You always want your 70-volt amp to have at least 15 or 20% more power than the combined watts your speakers are tapped at. For example, if you have a 180-watt/70-volt amplifier, you can install fifteen 70-volt speakers that are tapped at 10 watts each or thirty 70-volt speakers that are tapped at 5 watts each as long as they total close to 150 watts. When we say the word tap, what we are referring to is the selector knob at the front of the WA870 speakers (fig. a). It allows you to set how many watts the built-in transformer will allow the speaker to get from the amplifier. These speakers have taps set at 6.3, 12.5, 25, and 50 watts for 70-volt input, as well as 12.5, 25, and 50 watts for 100-volt input (fig. b). This range of taps allows for full customization of the sound for the space in which the speakers are installed. In a restaurant, for example, you can tap your dining room speakers at 25 watts, the speakers in the outside seating area at 50 watts, the ones in the hallway at 12.5 watts, and the speakers in the bathrooms at 6.3 watts. Another great feature of 70-volt speakers is that you can mix and match any type whether they are wall mounted speakers (such as these), ceiling speakers, subwoofers, etc.

Another benefit of 70-volt speaker set-ups is the ability to run very long lines of speaker wire without signal loss. And, the wiring is very simple. You just connect all the positive terminals of the speakers to the positive 70-volt terminal(s) of the amplifier. The negative terminals on the speaker get connected to the negative (COM) terminal(s) of the amp. You do not have to worry about impedance as the power is constant.

WARNING: Do not use 70-volt, 100-volt, and 8-ohm connections at the same time. Doing so will cause permanent damage to the amp.

A technical diagram labeled a in a black circle at the upper-left corner highlights the transformer tap selector switch on an in-wall speaker baffle: Transformer Tap Switch: Located to the lower right of the oval tweeter housing, a small circular rotary dial features wattage settings for 70V and 100V systems (including OFF, 8Ω, and various tap power options). Visual Callout: A green circle encloses the rotary tap dial, and a horizontal green arrow points directly to the right across the front panel toward the selector to highlight its location. Speaker Baffle Layout: The diagram shows the upper portion of the speaker front panel, including the outer frame with screw holes, the central tweeter assembly, and the top curve of the lower woofer cone.

A technical diagram labeled b in a black circle at the upper-left corner provides a detailed view of a multi-position rotary transformer tap switch: Dial Center Markings: The face of the dial is divided vertically by the central flat screwdriver slot into two distinct voltage modes labeled 100V on the left and 70V on the right. Tap Settings & Values: 100V Side (Left): Features settings for OFF, 12.5, 25, 50, and 8Ω. 70V Side (Right): Features settings for 8Ω, 50, 25, 12.5, 6.3, and OFF. Indicators & Controls: A downward-pointing triangle indicator is centered directly above the top edge of the dial, and an upward-pointing triangle indicator is centered below the bottom edge. Curved arrows on both sides indicate clockwise and counterclockwise rotation for selecting options.

Installation

Tools Needed:

Phillips-Head Screwdriver
Drywall Saw
Drill
Wire Strippers
Level
Pencil
Ruler
Gloves
Safety Goggles
Sturdy Piece of Wire (such as a coat hanger)

1.) Before beginning, make sure that there are no studs in the location you have chosen for installation.

A technical illustration labeled with the number 1 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates proper template positioning relative to wall framing: Left Panel (Correct Placement): A rectangular cutout template labeled "TEMPLATE" is placed flat on drywall centered between two vertical wall studs, accompanied by a large green checkmark underneath. Right Panel (Incorrect Placement): The template is placed directly over a wall stud, accompanied by a large red X underneath to indicate improper placement.

2.) Position the cutout template and use a level to ensure that it is properly aligned. Use a pencil to trace around the template and recheck the tracing to make sure it’s level.

3.) Use a ruler to locate the center of the outline you traced and drill a pilot hole there.

A technical line drawing labeled with the number 3 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates drilling a starter hole: Traced Outline: A rectangular template boundary is drawn with dashed lines on the wall, with vertical and horizontal dashed centerlines intersecting at the middle. Drilling Action: A hand holds a cordless power drill perpendicular to the wall, with the drill bit positioned directly at the center intersection point of the traced rectangle to create a pilot hole.

4.) Fold a coat hanger or other sturdy metal piece of wire, bend it 90º, and insert it into the pilot hole as shown above. Rotate the wire 360º to ensure here are no obstructions.

A technical line drawing labeled with the number 4 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates probing the wall cavity: Traced Outline: The dashed rectangular outline of the speaker cutout is shown marked on a drywall wall surface. Probing Action: A hand holds a straight wire tool with a 90-degree bent tip inserted into the center pilot hole. Rotation Indicator: A circular dashed arrow labeled "360°" surrounds the hole, showing that the bent wire is rotated in a full circle inside the wall cavity to check for hidden studs, pipes, or electrical wiring before cutting.

5.) Use the drywall saw to cut out the outline you traced on the wall. Before cutting, check the outline to ensure that it is straight and level.

A technical line drawing labeled with the number 5 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates cutting out the drywall opening: Traced Outline: A rectangular shape with a small drilled hole in the center is marked with dashed lines on a drywall wall surface. Cutting Action: A hand holds a handheld drywall saw (jab/keyhole saw) with its serrated blade inserted into the wall, actively cutting along the right vertical dashed line of the rectangular template outline.

6.) Run high-quality speaker cable* from your receiver to the hole you cut out. Be sure to leave a few extra feet

*Attention: Check local code requirements before installing in-ceiling or in-wall speaker wires. We recommend you use CL2 or CL3 rated, CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) speaker wire such as Rockville’s CL or RCC series 2 and 4 conductor speaker wire.

A technical line drawing labeled with the number 6 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates running speaker wiring: Wall Cutout: A clean rectangular hole cut into the drywall surface. Speaker Wires: Two insulated speaker wires—one red (positive) and one black (negative)—run through the wall cavity and extend outward through the bottom of the rectangular cutout opening. Exposed Leads: The ends of both wires are stripped, exposing short lengths of bare metal conductor ready for connection.

7.) Connect the speaker cables to your speaker. For detailed instructions, refer to the next section; Setup.

8.) Make sure the mounting screws are in the locked position. If they are not, turn them a quarter turn counterclockwise until they stop. Do this for all 6 screws.

A technical diagram labeled 8 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates the mechanical operation of an in-wall speaker's mounting clamp: Clamp Operation: Rotation: A green curved arrow indicates that turning the mounting screw rotates the dog-leg clamp arm outward 90 degrees into position behind the wall surface. Clamping Action: A green straight arrow accompanied by red dashed reference lines shows the clamp arm moving forward toward the mounting flange to clamp tightly against the drywall or mounting surface. Rear Assembly Context: The background details show the rear inner frame, internal wire harnesses, and the screw head mechanism attached to the clamp bracket.

9.) Insert the speaker into the wall and ensure that it is properly seated.

A technical line drawing labeled with the number 9 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates inserting the speaker into the wall: Insertion Action: Two hands guide a rectangular in-wall speaker frame into a cutout in the drywall surface. Directional Indicator: A green arrow near the bottom edge points inward toward the wall, indicating pushing the speaker body into the rectangular opening. Speaker Features: The front face of the speaker shows a top directional tweeter being pressed/guided by a hand, a main woofer cone below it, an adjustable tap switch dial on the left side, and multiple mounting screw holes around the outer frame flange.

10.) Using a drill or phillips-head screwdriver, turn each one of the mounting screws clockwise until the clamps firmly grip the wall. Now tighten each screw one additional turn to ensure that the clamps are locked in. Do not overtighten.

A technical line drawing labeled with the number 10 in a black circle at the top-left corner demonstrates securing the speaker in place: Securing Action: One hand holds the outer frame of the in-wall speaker flush against the wall, while the other hand uses a Phillips-head manual screwdriver to tighten a mounting screw along the frame edge. Rotational Direction: A green curved arrow around the screwdriver shank indicates turning clockwise to drive the screw and engage the rear dog-ear mounting clamps. Speaker Features: The front of the installed speaker shows the upper tweeter housing, main lower woofer cone, and multiple mounting screw holes around the outer rim.

11.) The grill is secured to the speaker with magnets. Simply place the grill on top of the speaker until you feel it catch..

A technical diagram labeled 11 in a black circle at the upper-left corner illustrates the final step of attaching the speaker cover: Grille Alignment: A rectangular mesh speaker grille is shown positioned directly in front of the installed in-wall speaker unit. Attachment Mechanism: Multiple dashed green arrows point from the corners, edges, and sides of the mesh grille directly toward corresponding contact points around the perimeter frame of the speaker baffle, indicating magnetic or push-fit attachment of the grille onto the front housing. Speaker Assembly Context: The in-wall speaker baffle behind the grille displays the tweeter assembly at the top, the rotary selector switch to its right, and the large woofer driver below it, surrounded by the outer mounting trim.

Setup

Strip ¼˝ to ½˝ of insulation from both ends of each speaker wire (fig. a). Fan out the strands (fig. b) and twist them (fig. c), making sure that there are none sticking out.

A technical diagram broken into three sequential panels labeled a, b, and c showing wire preparation steps for terminal connection: Panel A: Shows a red insulated wire with the outer jacket stripped back to expose straight, untwisted copper conductor strands. Panel B: Shows the exposed copper wire strands fanned out and separated from one another. Panel C: Shows the copper wire strands twisted neatly and tightly together into a single uniform lead ready for insertion into a connector or terminal.

Connect the positive wire to the 70V (shown) or 100V terminal of the amplifier and the negative wire to the post labeled COM (fig. d).

A technical line drawing labeled d in a black circle at the top-left corner, showing the rear connector panel of an audio amplifier: Direct Speaker Output Terminals: Three binding post terminals are labeled "DIRECT SPEAKER OUTPUT": 100V / 70V Positive Terminals: Red binding posts labeled 100V, 70V, and 4–16Ω. COM Negative Terminal: A black binding post labeled COM. Wiring Connections: Red Wire (Positive): An arrow indicates inserting the exposed wire end into the hole of the 70V red binding post. Black Wire (Negative): An arrow indicates inserting the exposed wire end into the hole of the COM black binding post. Additional Controls: Below the binding posts, a green multi-pin Euroblock terminal strip is labeled for multi-zone outputs (ZONE 1 through ZONE 5). A electrical safety warning label and power cord entry are visible on the right.

Warning: Do not use 70-volt, 100-volt, and 8-ohm connections at the same time. Doing so will cause permanent damage to the amp.

Whichever voltage output you choose, make sure that you use the corresponding taps when setting up your speakers. Connect the positive and negative cables to the corresponding push terminals on the speaker (fig. g)

Warning: Make sure that the positive (+) and negative (–) speaker wires are connected to the corresponding terminals on the speaker and the amplifier.

Speaker Configurations

70V/100V Speaker Configuration:

The total number of speakers multiplied by the tap value cannot exceed the output power (in watts) of your 70V/100V amplifier. The example below shows 5 total speakers. Using the 25W taps, you will need an amplifier with at least 125 watts (5 x 25 = 125W). A good rule of thumb is to select an amplifier with 15 to 20% greater power; in this case, an amplifier that delivers about 150W.

A technical wiring diagram illustrating a 70V/100V constant-voltage audio system setup: Amplifier / Receiver (Top Left): A Rockville RCS180-6 commercial 70V amplifier receiver showing front-panel controls, input dials, display screen, and power switch. Main Wire Runs: Two primary leads run from the rear output of the amplifier: Black Wire: Labeled COM (Negative). Red Wire: Labeled 70V/100V (Positive). Speaker Array & Daisy-Chain Wiring: A row of five rectangular in-wall speaker units arranged side-by-side below the amplifier. The positive (red) and negative (black) speaker wires run continuously in a parallel daisy-chain configuration, connecting sequentially from the amplifier to the far-right speaker and continuing across to each adjacent speaker from right to left.

8 Ohm Speaker Configuration:

Please make sure the tap is set to 8 Ohm.

A technical wiring diagram illustrating a direct 8-ohm speaker setup connected to a commercial receiver amplifier: Amplifier / Receiver (Top Center): A Rockville RCS180-6 commercial amplifier receiver showing front-panel dials, digital display, control buttons, and power switch. Left Speaker Connection: A rectangular in-wall speaker positioned on the left. Red Wire: Connects from the amplifier to the speaker's positive terminal, labeled 8 Ohm (Positive). Black Wire: Connects from the amplifier to the speaker's negative terminal, labeled COM (Negative). Right Speaker Connection: A rectangular in-wall speaker positioned on the right. Red Wire: Connects from the amplifier to the speaker's positive terminal, labeled 8 Ohm (Positive). Black Wire: Connects from the amplifier to the speaker's negative terminal, labeled COM (Negative).

Features/Specifications

Transformer Taps:
- 70V: 50W, 25W, 12.5W, 6.3W, 8-ohm
- 100V: 50W, 25W, 12.5W, 8-ohm
8” Woofer
Woven Glass Fiber Cone
Rubber Surround
1.5” KAPTON Voice Coil
1” Silk Dome Tweeter
5-way tap switch on the front panel
21 oz. Ferrite Magnet
Built-in 12dB/octave crossover (3kHz cutoff frequency)
Easy to mount inside your wall
High Quality Spring Loaded Push Terminals
Flush Mount Grills
Magnetic grill
Frequency Response: 60Hz – 19.5kHz (-3dB) 44Hz – 20.6kHz (-6dB)
Sensitivity: 88dB @ 1w/1m
Crossover Spec: 3kHz (12dB/oct)
Nominal Coverage Angle: 70 degrees (H) X 70 degrees (V)
Directivity (Q): 9.4
Directivity Index (DI): 9.7 dB
Impedance: 8 Ohms (When the tap is set to 8 ohm)
Mounting Depth: 3.397”
Cut-out Dimension: 13.18” x 9.05”
Unit Dimensions (H x W x D): 14.49” x 10.43” x 3.94”
Unit Weight: 5.6lb
Color: White
Easy to follow installation and how-to-use videos

Dimensions

Related to

WA870 Owner's Manual