10˝ and 12˝ Free Air Marine Subwoofers w/LEDs

The Rockville MS-L series marine subwoofer is one of the most powerful on the market. What really makes this sub stand out is the sound quality and durability. The frequency range of these subs is so good that it will make all your songs sound so much better! These play frequencies that normal full range speakers cannot hit adding depth and richness to all your music. We added an awesome LED lighting effect to these subs to really make your system shine. The MS-L series subwoofer was designed in a molded ABS plastic basket made with a special blend that is waterproof and un-breakable.

Using only true marine grade components and materials, the MS-L series subwoofers are fully marinized against salt & fresh water conditions. These subs are completely waterproof and protected from the elements! They are UV treated and have a special waterproof coating to prevent water damage.

LED Wiring Instructions

Connect the red cable of the included LED power harness to your vessel’s ACC/ignition switch. You can also connect it to the remote terminal of your amp if it is nearby. This will turn the LEDs on or off when you power up or power down your radio/head unit.
Connect the black cable to the negative terminal of your power supply.
Connect the receptacle at the end of the harness to the corresponding receptacle protruding from the back of the subwoofer, near the terminals. Refer to step 6 of the installation instructions.

⚠️Caution!

Do not short circuit the led output. Doing so may cause permanent damage!

A graphic with a dark background displays a white box containing wire terminal connections, topped with the bold text "ATTENTION:". Positive Connection: A red wire leads into a red connector, lined up with a red circular icon containing a white plus (+) symbol. Negative Connection: A dark gray/black wire leads into a black connector, lined up with a dark gray circular icon containing a white minus (-) symbol. Bridged Wire Connection: A dashed orange line points to bold blue text that reads "BRIDGED WIRE".

Wiring Diagrams

4 ohm DVC woofer wired in Parallel for a 2 ohm load:

A technical diagram shows a circular dual voice coil subwoofer connected to a Rockville dBM13 amplifier panel. Subwoofer Terminals: Left Voice Coil (4Ω): Features a negative terminal (-) on top and a positive terminal (+) on the bottom. Right Voice Coil (4Ω): Features a positive terminal (+) on top and a negative terminal (-) on the bottom. Wiring Connections: Positive Connections (Red Wires): A red wire runs from the left positive terminal (+), joins a second red wire from the right positive terminal (+), and both connect into the positive (+) speaker terminals on the amplifier. Negative Connections (Black Wires): A black wire runs from the left negative terminal (-), joins a second black wire from the right negative terminal (-), and both connect into the negative (-) speaker terminals on the amplifier. Amplifier Panel Details: Located at the bottom, the Rockville dBM13 panel is labeled "MINIMUM IMPEDANCE AT TERMINAL 2-OHM". Displays four speaker terminals (two positive +, two negative -), a central fuse slot, and power terminals labeled "+12V", "REM", and "GND" on the right.

Two 4 ohm DVC woofers Parallel/Parallel for a 1 ohm load

A technical diagram illustrates the wiring of two circular dual voice coil subwoofers connected in parallel to a Rockville dBM13 amplifier. Voice Coil Bridging (Orange Dashed Lines): On both subwoofers, the top-left negative (-) 4-ohm terminal is bridged directly to the top-right positive (+) 4-ohm terminal using a jumper wire represented by an orange dashed line. Left Subwoofer Connections: A red wire leads from the bottom-left positive (+) terminal to the amplifier's positive (+) speaker output. A black wire leads from the bottom-right negative (-) terminal to the amplifier's negative (-) speaker output. Right Subwoofer Connections: A red wire leads from the bottom-left positive (+) terminal to the amplifier's positive (+) speaker output. A black wire leads from the bottom-right negative (-) terminal to the amplifier's negative (-) speaker output. Amplifier Panel Details: Located at the bottom, the Rockville dBM13 panel is labeled "MINIMUM IMPEDANCE AT TERMINAL 2-OHM". Features four speaker terminals (two positive +, two negative -), a central fuse slot, and power connection terminals labeled "+12V", "REM", and "GND" on the right.

4 ohm DVC woofer wired in Parallel for a 2 ohm load:

A technical diagram illustrates two circular dual voice coil (DVC) subwoofers wired in parallel to achieve a 1-ohm total load at the amplifier. Parallel Voice Coil Jumper Connections (Orange Dashed Lines): Left Subwoofer: An orange dashed jumper wire connects the top-left negative (-) terminal to the bottom-right negative (-) terminal. A second orange dashed jumper wire connects the bottom-left positive (+) terminal to the top-right positive (+) terminal. Right Subwoofer: Follows the exact same configuration, with orange dashed jumpers pairing top-left negative (-) to bottom-right negative (-), and bottom-left positive (+) to top-right positive (+). Amplifier Wiring Connections: Positive Connections (Red Wires): A red wire runs from the bottom-left positive (+) terminal of the left subwoofer to the first positive (+) terminal on the amplifier. A second red wire runs from the bottom-left positive (+) terminal of the right subwoofer to the second positive (+) terminal on the amplifier. Negative Connections (Black Wires): A black wire runs from the bottom-right negative (-) terminal of the left subwoofer to the first negative (-) terminal on the amplifier. A second black wire runs from the bottom-right negative (-) terminal of the right subwoofer to the second negative (-) terminal on the amplifier. Amplifier Panel Details: Located at the bottom, labeled "MINIMUM IMPEDANCE AT TERMINAL 1-OHM". Shows four speaker connection terminals (two positive +, two negative -), a central fuse slot, and power terminals labeled "+12V", "REM", and "GND" on the right.

Subwoofer Installation

1.) Find a mounting location that does not interfere with the safe operation of your vessel. For example, under the seat or the bow. Or, if the vessel is large, you can put two in different locations. Make sure the mounting screws will not puncture wiring harnesses, control cables, hydraulic lines, fuel lines, the fuel tank, or the hull. These may be located behind or under the mounting surfaces.

A step-by-step installation illustration labeled with a circled number 1 at the top-left corner shows a line-art diagram of a boat interior highlighting speaker placement options. Header Label: A callout bubble labeled "EXAMPLES" points with three arrows to dark circular dotted targets on the boat's interior panels. Cockpit Mounting Location: One arrow points to a circular cutout area under the dashboard near the driver's console and helm seat. Seating Area Mounting Locations: Two arrows point to circular cutout locations along the side walls near the passenger seating in the rear cabin area.

2.) Create a mounting template using the provided measurements and place it on the desired surface. Use a drill to drill the holes for the mounting screws.

An installation illustration labeled Step 2 in the top-left corner demonstrates how to position and secure a speaker mounting template. Template Design: A square piece of paper displays a circular cutout guide with four small screw hole markers at the top, bottom, left, and right edges. Action: A left hand rests flat against the template to hold it steady against the mounting surface. Securing Method: Strips of adhesive tape are placed over the corners—a piece of tape is shown applied at the top-left corner, another at the bottom-right corner, and a right hand is shown placing tape at the top-right corner.

3.) Use the drill to make the mounting holes, being careful to not rip the template.

An installation illustration labeled Step 3 in the top-left corner demonstrates how to drill pilot holes using a mounting template. Template Setup: A square template with a circular cutout guide is taped securely to the mounting surface at all four corners. Action: A left hand holds the template flat and steady against the surface. A right hand operates a cordless power drill, aligning the drill bit directly over one of the small circular screw hole markers along the edge of the template ring.

4.) Use a utility knife (pictured), jigsaw, rotary cutting tool, or other appropriate tool to cut out the mounting hole.

An installation illustration labeled Step 4 in the top-left corner demonstrates cutting out the main mounting hole using a utility knife. Template Setup: A square mounting template with a circular guide is taped securely at all four corners. Action: A left hand holds the template steady against the surface. A right hand uses a utility knife to trace and cut along the inner circular line of the template.

5.) Remove the subwoofer’s grill in order to expose the mounting holes. Simply press down, turn the cover counterclockwise (to the left) and carefully pull it up.

An installation illustration labeled Step 5 in the top-left corner demonstrates removing the speaker's front grille assembly. Speaker Component: Shows a circular speaker unit with a horizontal-slatted front grille cover attached. Action Arrows: A straight arrow pointing up from the top edge indicates lifting the grille off the speaker frame. Curved arrows on the left (pointing down/counterclockwise) and right (pointing up/counterclockwise) indicate twisting or prying the grille edge to release it.

6.) Connect your pre-routed speaker cables (fig. a) and LED power wires (fig. b) to the woofer (refer to the LED Wiring Instructions section). Make sure to place the vibration dampening gasket (fig. c) as shown in the diagram. Insert the woofer into the mounting hole, align the mounting screw holes, insert the screws and tighten them. Do not over tighten. To replace the grill, place it upon the sub, press lightly, and carefully turn it clockwise (to the right).

An exploded assembly diagram labeled Step 6 in the top-left corner illustrates how to mount a speaker to a surface and wire its connections. Hardware Alignment: Six mounting screws on the far left align with blue dashed guidelines that pass through the outer rim of the speaker, through a dark circular mounting gasket (fig. c), and into corresponding mounting holes surrounding a dark cutout hole in the mounting surface (fig. a). Wiring Connections: fig. a: A bundle of four wires (two red positive, two black negative) passes through the circular mounting cutout from behind the panel. fig. b: Quick-connect spade terminals connect a red wire from the speaker body to a red wire extending from the mounting surface cutout.

Features/Specifications

MS10L

Max power: 2400 Watts
RMS power: 600 Watts
Injection Cone with Santoprene Surround
2˝ 4 Layer dual voice coil
Molded ABS plastic basket made with a special blend that is water proof and unbreakable
Cool LED lighting effect
80oz double stacked magnet
Frequency response: 30Hz – 4kHz
Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 90dB
Total diameter: 10.55˝
Cutout diameter: 9.0˝
Mounting depth: 5.6˝
Available in Black or White

MS12L

Max power: 2800 Watts
RMS power: 700 Watts
Injection Cone with Santoprene Surround
2.5˝ 4 Layer dual voice coil
Molded ABS plastic basket made with a special blend that is water proof and unbreakable
Cool LED lighting effect
100oz double stacked magnet
Frequency response: 20Hz – 4kHz
Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
Sensitivity: 90dB
Total diameter: 12.8˝
Cutout diameter: 11˝
Mounting depth: 6.1˝
Available in Black or White

MS10L/MS12L Owner's Manual